It is the kind of place where the pastry and baked goods are in such demand that people hesitate to spread the word in fear the winding lines will get longer and they’ll run out of cinnamon rolls by the time it’s their turn, said Scott Dolch, CEO and president of Connecticut Restaurant Association.
Julien’s Farm Store is run by owner/word-class chef and pastry maker Julien Tessier out of a tiny converted garage on a farm in Granby. The kitchen is so small that if the oven is opened, someone else has to stop what they’re doing and move.
In its humble beginnings two years ago, almost immediately and still, there’s a line weekends that forms 15 minutes before opening and continues for hours.
So it should come as no surprise to the fans who flock there from as far away as upstate New York, that Tessier has been named Connecticut’s Pastry Chef of the Year by the Connecticut Restaurant Association at its recent Crazies Awards.
To dovetail the CRA honor, fans can rejoice in another announcement: Tessier and his husband, Christopher Peregrin, are adding a second location in Granby that’s eight times as big as the original, with lots of indoor seating and a proper kitchen to crank out the from scratch products.
Simply called Julien’s, the new restaurant in the town center at 9 Bank St, will sell breads, as well and include a grab and go section of seasonal entrees, salads, soups and more made with ingredients from partner local farms.
“I’m so excited I can’t tell you. We need a real kitchen,” Tessier said. ‘We’ve been doing this from this very little space dancing around each other.”
He said they are not closing the original farm store, as, “It has value.”
The original store on Valkyrie Farm at 175 Barndoor Hills Road has often been described as “magical” with year-round outdoor seating with heaters in Tessier’s spectacular flower garden. In season, the garden is blooming with Dahlias, zinnia, and sunflowers. There are only a few seats around an island in the original store.
The new place, with a projected opening in early February, is about 4,600 square feet, and will seat about 60-70 with a lot of familiar touches, including flowers and plants from the original eatery, the same pine counters, polished concrete floors, and warm white colors. They plan on installing a wood-burning stove to add to the rustic feel. The restaurant is 12 minutes from the original store.
In terms of delicious products, “We’ve only scratched the surface at the tiny farm store,” because of equipment. The new place will have expanded offerings and Tessier “will get more playful,” he said.
Tessier said he hasn’t yet planned the menu close enough to say what products might be added.
Customers online rave about Julien’s Farm Store: the setting with breathtaking views, the breakfast sandwiches served on from scratch biscuits, the tender, flavorful brisket, cookies, donuts, cinnamon rolls, croissants, laminated pastries, (think layers of butter and dough.) They also carry soups, salads, sandwiches made with local produce.
One guest wrote, “Best donuts I’ve ever put in my mouth” and another said they would be planning future sightseeing adventures around a trip to Julien’s. Another called Julien’s Farm store the “Best not so well kept secret in Granby.”
The bakery case is filled at 8 a.m. at opening and the contents go fast. When they run out, they close.
Dolch, who doesn’t have a vote in the Crazies award, said he and his family live in a neighboring town and have become regulars. His daughters, 13 and 8, “love the place” so much that his wife texted them of the win from the Crazies Awards Gala.
He said all the nominees have done “incredible” work in their field.
Dolch said Tessier’s win is a “perfect example” of what the Crazies are about: people doing what they love and excelling, even though they may not be the biggest establishment.
Tessier, as humble a man as his original store, said of the Crazies award win, “I also feel touched with the recognition.”
In true Tessier fashion, he said the award goes as well to the team, his husband, and the community of Granby.
“It’s not me,” he said. He said the decision to open the second location in Granby was out of loyalty to the town that supported them.
It was a casual opening two years ago that no public relations firm could have so successfully orchestrated.
After posting some photos on Instagram and converting the garage on a low budget, the spouses decided to hang up a sign on a lightly-traveled road and see what would happen.
It happened big time and right away.
The locals came, word spread, and they were a hit with lines that continued for hours.
Granby Town Manager Michael P. Walsh said at the time, “For breakfast foodies, it needs to be a destination,” and said he “hands down,” had the best breakfast breakfast sandwich ever.
Many have said they plan a day of sightseeing in Connecticut around a trip to Julien’s Farm Store.
Tessier said they already have “high standards” but the equipment and oven upgrades will improve “the rhythm” of making things and result in better quality products.
What is the secret to making such out of this world pastries and baked goods?
“It’s all about a lot of hard work, knowing fundamentals, techniques, repetition,” he said. “Simplicity is sometimes the most difficult.”
Tessier grew up in France, where he attended culinary school and was trained in pastry as well. Later, he traveled the world as a chef.
“Everything I have had so far at Julien’s is obviously made with a lot of care and to me this farm store is absolutely worth checking out,” one guest/reviewer wrote.
Another calls it a “one of a kind” place.”
“The outdoor seating area is stunning,” she wrote.
Another said they would drive an hour again for the food and views.
“Just a beautiful quaint place like no other,” the guest wrote.